by denman on August 6, 2009
OK, most New Yorker’s have at least heard about this area, but in New York City,
knowledge of local wineries is generally limited to Long Island, notwithstanding the
superb efforts of the New York Wine and Grape Foundation’s indefatigable and
comprehensive PR efforts.
Let’s start in 1951 when Dr. Konstantin Frank, a Ph.D. and professor of plant sciences in
Russia, emigrated to the U.S. and arrived with $40 in his pocket. He spoke 6 languages,
English not being one of them. [click to continue…]
by denman on June 28, 2009
Experimentation can yield excellent pairings
Food and wine pairings are all the rage. After all, we’re always looking for a synergism in which both the wine and food taste better together than either one possibly could by itself.
Some of the old favorites are oysters and Vouvray from the Loire Valley in France; goat cheese and Sauvignon Blanc, including Pouilly-Fume and Sancerre from the Loire Valley; rack of lamb with Bordeaux; fowl with Pinot Noir, including Burgundy; and paté or caviar with champagne.
The saying that “white wine goes with fish and red wine goes with meat” is generally correct, in my opinion. However, there are lots of exceptions. For example, grilled salmon goes well with Pinot Noir, particularly from California or Oregon. A local trout cooked in red wine with a great red Burgundy was a smashing success at the Hotel de la Poste in Beaune, France. And if one wants to have a Bordeaux with fish, halibut and swordfish can work well.
[click to continue…]
by denman on June 24, 2009
Only 20 years ago, Israel had 20 wineries. Today, there are 200. An interesting aspect here is that this is quite similar to the growth of Texas wineries over the last 20 years.
Just within the last several months, I have been made aware of the fact that a significant number of Israeli wines are in the very good to excellent range of quality. At a wonderful meal at Carmelo’s in Houston on June 15th, 4 wines were featured, and all were top notch.
Possibly the least of the 4 was the very good Pelter Sauvignon Blanc 2007. With the lovely, ripe fruit at its core, it could pass for a very good California, rather than New Zealand or Loire Valley Sauvignon.
The Pelter Trio 2006, a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc, had a medium body and good acidity to complement the subtle oak and cherry flavors. Both Pelter wines hail from the Golam Heights.
Next in line was the Tulip Mostly Shiraz 2006 (fantastic with grilled duck breast over vegetable risotto). This wine, from the Haifa area, was recently named one of the Top 10 Up-and-Coming producers in Israel. The Mostly Shiraz is 64% Shiraz, 15% each of Cabernet Franc and Merlot and 6% Petit Verdot. Darker in color than the Tulip Trio, and with more noticeable tannins, the wine is nevertheless ready to drink now. A hint of ripe plums and spice top off this well-balanced beauty.
Last and best is the Margolit Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 from the central part of the country. Chef Carmelo paired this stallion (redolent of currants, black berries and bountiful tender tannins) with his Piatto Forte–lamb chops with fresh mint and Cabernet reduction with rosemary potatoes and white asparagus. Margolit was the first real boutique in Israel, starting in 1989.
For more information about Israeli wines, contact Jim Veal, Director of Trade and Investment Promotion, Government of Israel Economic Office, 713-599-0290.
by denman on January 21, 2009
Around the same period of history that our Civil War was coming to a close, a tiny, almost microscopic louse (read, ugly little bug) was accidentally imported, probably from the eastern United States, by Europe. The native East Coast vines somehow had become immune to the parasite’s potential danger. However, once in Europe, it multiplied and spread to such an extent that the non-immune vinifera vines of Europe—Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay, Riesling, etc.—were systematically devastated. [click to continue…]
by denman on January 21, 2009
Each of the Nickel and Nickel Cabernets is exceptional, the one listed above is one of my favorites: Start drinking Rock Cairn now and over the next few years.
It is aged for 17 months in approximately 50% new and 50% one-year-old French oak barrels. Rock Cairn is complex and powerful, with myriad layers of flavors that should reveal themselves more fully over the years. www.nickelandnickel.com $75 each.